RE-ROUTED READS

TROMSØ - WHERE IN THE WORLD?

On an island in Northern Norway, 217 miles above the Arctic Circle where the comparatively warm Norwegian Sea mixes with the chilly Arctic Ocean.

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TROMSØ - WHAT’S THE ATTRACTION?

If a trip to the Arctic conjures visions of forbidding ice-encrusted peaks, ravenous polar bears, and shivering explorers huddling to survive, Tromsø may shock you.

While famed polar explorer Roald Amundsen launched many expeditions from here (including his fatal last one), these days Tromsø carries a whispered reputation as a vibrant, let-loose sibling to stately and straight-laced Oslo or cruise-mobbed Bergen.

A surprisingly diverse culinary scene fuelled by Norway’s oceanic and terrestrial bounty will gas you up for the main event: dancing, drinking, and dishing the night away at one of the city’s bespoke watering holes. Disco or dive, brewery or speakeasy, Tromsø has you covered all night—a fitting attribute for a city where morning sometimes never comes.

Or night never falls: On bright, endless summer days, easy-access adventures await at in-town swimming parks or nearby fjords and mountains hikes just outside.

But don’t worry—all roads lead back to lively Tromsø, where new friends await with a frosty pint or crafted cocktail.

Despite being called the “Gateway to the Arctic,” Tromsø’s weather is milder than most regions at similar latitudes, thanks to the Gulf Stream, a powerful Atlantic current that mellows the Arctic with a blast of warmth from the Gulf of Mexico.

This has long enabled civilization to thrive in the Far North: First with the Indigenous Sami, followed by Old Norse chieftains, mainland Europeans, and eventually the most raucous raiders of all: college students.

18,000 of the city’s 77,000 or so residents attend schools like the University of Tromsø, which ranks highly among schools worldwide.

This adds a bit of modern undercurrent to a robust eating and drinking culture that existed to help hardy fisherman and intrepid explorers unwind after dangerous forays into the seas beyond.

North Pole fishing and exploration booms of the 19th century grew it into the largest city at this altitude by far, and even then stunned travelers from far south nicknamed it the “Paris of the North.”

That might be a bit of a stretch these days, but modern architecture, museums, hotels, clubs, and adventure outfitters ensure Tromsø punches far above its weight in the tourism department.

But since picturesque fjords, charming islands, and soaring peaks surround the city, you can’t help but be drawn outside its borders. In summer, drag yourself away from outdoor concerts and the Arctic Cathedral to hike in the nearby Lyngen Alps, spot reindeer grazing on Kvaløya Island, or sea kayak in the tide pools of Sommarøy Island. 

Back in town, take a chilly dip in Telegrafbukta Bay or ride the cable car up Mt. Storsteinen (you can hike 1,200 stone steps to the top, too). Winter brings skiing, dog sledding, and the mesmerizing aurora borealis: bursts of charged energy particles from the sun sent across space to erupt in our atmosphere in glowing, undulating hues of green, purple, and red.

Tromsø is one of the top spots to spot them in Europe, and now is a perfect time to do it: Astronomers report that we have entered a period of higher-than-usual solar activity, with spectacular light shows expected to continue into 2025 and even 2026.

But we’ll let you in on a little secret. While winter hotels fill up with Northern Lights seekers, statistically the aurora is most active in low-season spring and fall, when you can score steals on accommodations and not have to endure 72 days of perpetual night. 

Whichever season you choose, Tromsø will be bumping when you come in from the cold.

Chow down on immaculate seafood at Arctandria, or tuck into succulent steaks and wines at old-school slaughterhouse Nitty Gritty. Helmersen offers award-winning Norwegian cheeses in a casual delicatessen, and if you forget to get your calories, look for Raketten—the rocket-shaped hot dog hut on the main drag that stays open practically until the sun comes up. 

In between all the face stuffing, there’s the profusion of incredible watering holes. Blårock features rock bands most nights, while dark dive bar Bastard will simply make you feel like you’re already in a band.

Balthazar Vinbar and Mykrobriggeriet give wine and beer snobs a place to mingle within the same space, and Rorbua is a fisherman’s shack seemingly pulled up from the bottom of the sea.

Found an old movie theater? It’s also a bar. Ready to dance all night? Try Gründer, Prelaten, or Heidi’s. The point is you will find a place to suit your style until the sun comes up (or doesn’t).

Last thing: Yes, alcohol in Norway is expensive. Many locals embrace the pregame at home before going out.

The best way to ingratiate yourself and get invited is to make sure you purchased a tax-free bottle at the airport before you make friends. Skål.

GO IF…

you like your outdoor adventures leavened with a healthy dose of low-key urban cool. 

DON’T GO IF…

average summer temps of 55 F/ 12 C sound more like a nightmare than a vacation. 

HOW TO GET THERE:

An easy 2-hour domestic flight from Oslo gets you to Tromsø. International flights leave from London Gatwick, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Frankfurt.

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