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Sifnos - come for the food, stay for the vibes
Chickpeas, clay pots and so much incredible beauty.
Mike D. Lang
September 19, 2024
If you’re tired of jostling for sunset views in Santorini or battling clubbers in Mykonos, enjoy Re-Routed’s introduction to the world of lesser-known, but absolutely gorgeous Greek islands.
Various Greek islands have slowly and sneakily wormed their way into my heart using a combination of food, whitewashed churches and endless sea views. And I know I’m not the only one.
Which means Re-Routed will be visiting that corner of the world quite regularly.
Starting with a little gem that’s slowly becoming a magnet for foodies and hikers.
Say "Yassou!" to Sifnos, where the only crowds you'll see are gathering around a bowl of locally made chickpea soup.
Castro, Sifnos
WHERE IN THE WORLD?
Nestled in the western Cyclades, Sifnos is the unsung culinary hero of the Greek islands. It's just a ferry ride away from Athens, but light-years apart in pace and authenticity. (Google Maps, Apple Maps)
Quite unusually for Cyclades, the main, rather miniscule port, Kamares, while quite lively, is not the main hub of activity on the island.
For that, you need to head up to the two main villages stretched along the eastern side of the mountains: Apollonia and Artemonas.
GO IF….
your idea of a perfect trip involves more pottery than parties.
DON’T GO IF….
if you think "Sifnos" sounds like a new nasal decongestant.
SIFNOS - WHAT’S THE ATTRACTION?
Ceramic heaven
The island's rich clay deposits have made pottery a local art form for millennia.
In Sifnos, the ultimate souvenir is not a “I ❤️ Greece” kitchen towel, but a mastelo pot - a clay pot without a lid used to slow cook meat.
The craft, dating back to the Bronze Age, has been so critical to shaping the island’s character that in 2022, the United Nations’ UNESCO added the ceramics of Sifnos to Greece’s National Index of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
For such a small island, there’s a surprising number of museums, each displaying multiple clay pieces crafted by Sifnian potters thousands of years ago.
Today, you can easily find potteries in places like Apollonia or Artemonas where you can watch masters at work and pick up a mastelo pot for yourself.
Then use it to cook Sifnos' signature lamb dish, slow-cooked with wine and dill.
Locally made ceramic pieces drying outside before they’re fired in the kiln.
Culinary Paradise
Sifnos isn't just an island; it's a floating cookbook.
This is the birthplace of Greece's first celebrity chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, considered one of the most influential food writers in modern Greece.
Locals take their food very, very seriously.
It would be an unforgivable sin to leave Sifnos without trying revithada, a chickpea soup slow-cooked in a clay pot for, well, most of the day. And perhaps most of the night too.
Other dishes to try include manoura, a local semi-firm cheese made from the milk of wild goats and sheep, chickpea croquettes made with lots of herbs and, if you happen to be there around Easter, the traditional goat or lamb stew.
Locally made sweets like the Sifnian almond biscuits or honey pie, will supply you with enough energy to hike up those steep hills.
And speaking of hiking….
Hiking trails
While tourists in Santorini cram onto buses, in Sifnos, you'll be traipsing along ancient marble paths that criss-cross the island.
With over 100km of well-marked trails, you can monastery-hop like a time-travelling monk.
Don't miss the Chrissopygi Monastery, perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop.
And of course, Castro, Sifnos' former capital, perched high on a hill overlooking the endless Aegean Sea.
This medieval village is a maze of narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, and Byzantine churches, all encircled by 15th-century Venetian walls.
With a trendy cafe or bar here and there. After all this walking, you will need some strong coffee or a glass of wine to go with those almond biscuits, right?
HOW TO GET THERE:
The port of Piraeus in Athens is the usual starting point for most ferry trips to the Cyclades and beyond.
The journey itself can take around 2.5 to 5 hours, depending on the type of ferry you take.
Alternatively, fly to nearby Milos or Paros and take a shorter ferry hop. Just don't expect any high-speed options – Sifnos likes to take things slow, including your arrival.
CURIOUS? READ ON:
Are these the most scenic islands in Greece?
Sifnos, the most delicious Greek island
Sifnos crowned the world’s best
Where to eat in Sifnos
Cycladic Islands’ character under threat
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Thanks for reading!
Mike