Unless you’re reading this on the beach or in the middle of the summer, chances are you’re probably ready for some sunshine and warmth. And perhaps a pastel de nata or two.

Welcome to Lisbon’s sexy neighbour, Cascais, a former fishing village which offers all of the above and still feels genuinely Portuguese, despite its royal pedigree.

RE-ROUTED READS

CASCAIS - WHERE IN THE WORLD?

A 30-minute train ride along the coast from Lisbon drops you in what feels like a different Portugal – one where time moves slower and seafood tastes fresher.

(Google Maps, Apple Maps)

CASCAIS - WHAT’S THE ATTRACTION?

The name means "Hell's Mouth," but this natural wonder is more mesmerizing than menacing.

A series of caves and rock formations create nature's own percussion section when waves crash through them.

Take the coastal path from town in late afternoon, when the light plays tricks with the water spray.

The local surfers gather at Bar do Guincho (good food and a big car park nearby) to watch the show – join them for grilled octopus and vinho verde.

This 1952 rather plain looking, but beautifully colourful market hall tells Cascais's story better than any guidebook.

Downstairs, fishmongers and greengrocers continue their centuries-old banter over piles of fresh seafood and brightly-coloured fruit.

Upstairs, a contemporary food court serves their produce with a modern twist.

If you look around, you can find places serving seafood rice that makes Lisbon's famous restaurants seem overpriced.

Wednesday mornings bring local farmers to the outside stalls – arrive early for the best cheese and honey.

Cascais became a destination in the late 19th century when King Luis I chose the village as his summer residence. That’s why many buildings look and feel royal.

But - quite unexpectedly - from the manicured gardens rise two terracotta pyramids (with their tops chopped off) – this is Casa das Histórias, home to Portugal’s famous visual artist’s Paula Rego's art.

The building itself, by architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, is worth the visit alone. Rego wanted it to be “fun, lively and also a bit mischievous”.

Sunday mornings offer free guided tours, and the museum café's pastries rival anything in Lisbon's famous bakeries.

The sculpture garden provides a quiet spot to sketch or read, something you'll rarely find in Lisbon's busy museums.

GO IF…

you believe good things come in smaller packages and prefer your Portuguese culture served with a side of sea breeze.

DON’T GO IF…

you need constant entertainment – Cascais's charm lies in slowing down and noticing the little things.

HOW TO GET THERE:

The train from Lisbon's Cais do Sodré follows the coastline every 20 minutes – sit on the right for the best views.

Skip the organized tours and download the Visit Cascais app for local walking routes.

CURIOUS? READ ON:

🗺️ The beachy town loved by Lisbon’s movers and shakers

🛍️ What is the best "bolo-rei" and the most beautiful storefront in Cascais?